Master Appliance UT-100SiK Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Metal Storage Case

Special Price!!! Master Appliance UT-100SiK Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Metal Storage Case

Master Appliance UT-100SiK Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Metal Storage Case
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Master Appliance UT-100SiK Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Metal Storage Case Feature

  • Features oxygen free, copper based Ultra tip soldering tips, with thick iron and chrome plating for long life and high thermal conductivity
  • Cordless and completely portable, ready to use in 30-seconds
  • Adjustable temperature control
  • Soldering temperature up to 932-Degree Fahrenheit, ideal for use with today's lead free solder
  • Sturdy metal tank with fuel viewing window holds enough fuel for 2 hours of operation


Master Appliance UT-100SiK Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Metal Storage Case Overview

UT-100SIK Model Code: AB - Price is for 1 Each (part# UT-100SIK) This item features: -Built-in fuel filter for consistent fuel ignition. -Built-in window indicates fuel level. -Dual function soldering iron and heat tool. -Use to pinpoint heat, remove surface mount components, repair vinyl, shrink heat shrinkable tubing, solder & desolder, spot dry, strip insulation with hot knife and more. -Self igniting. -Convenient slide switch ignition system for quick ignition. -New compact size, lightweight and completely portable, features a rugged, easy-to-hold plastic body. -Patented gas catalyst reaction system. -Gas Type: Butane. -Output Power: 20 W [Min], 80 W [Max]. Testing and approvals: -UL listed. Model Code  Model Description AAOperating Temp.:482 F [Min], 1202 F [Max], Capacity Vol.:0.20 oz, Body Material:Metal, Run Time:120.00 min [Max], Length:10.300 in, Includes:Cap, Coil of 60/40 Solder, Hot Knife, Needle Nose Pliers, Plastic Carrying Case, Sponge, (3) Ultratip Soldering Tips, Heat Shrink Reflector, Hot Air Tip, Wire Cutter, Wt.:5 1/2 oz ABOperating Temp.:482 F [Min], 1202 F [Max], Capacity Vol.:0.20 oz, Body Material:Metal, Run Time:120.00 min [Max], Length:10.300 in, Includes:Open End Wrench, Shrink Attachment, Sponge, Steel Case, Ejector, Ultratip Soldering Tip, Wt.:5 1/2 oz ACOperating Temp.:840 F [Min], 1202 F [Max], Capacity Vol.:1/2 oz, Run Time:1.30 h [Max], Length:8.300 in, Includes:Unit, Soldering Tip, Heat Tip, Hot Knife Tip, Shrink Attachment, Cap, Sponge, Stand, Plastic Case, Type:Open Flame Torch, Wt.:2.60 oz



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Do's And Don'ts To Protect Your Home From Burglars

DON'T: Install but not use an alarm system. Nearly every pricey house that is robbed has some type of alarm that is not utilized.

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DO: Arm the alarm system even if you are only running out for just a few minutes. Knowledgeable burglars snoop neighborhoods and learn when residents go to work or run errands and how long they are likely to be away. They're ready to break in as soon you are gone. Get a zone alarm that has room to room control. You can leave the bedroom alarm armed when you're in the living room, for example. The best alarm systems offer many layers of protection, motion, heat light sensors, etc.

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DON'T: Posting alarm signs that say what alarm company you are using. Thieves can easily buy schematics on how the systems are wired and can easily bypass them..

DO: Buy plain signs that read, 'This home is protected by an alarm system. As long as it doesn't give detailed information, it can be an excellent deterrent.

DON'T: Keep lights on. A light that stays lit all day and night is no more of a deterrent than a dark house. Use timers that turn on an off lights in different parts of the home at different intervals. Web retailers and home stores sell motion detectors that turn on lamps or appliances if somebody enters the home.

DON'T: Hide items in the bedroom. It's the first place thieves go. Most robbers spend 15 minutes or or even less in each house.More than half of the time is spent in the bedroom, looking in the usual hiding places, an dresser drawer under the mattress high closet shelves, etc. Don't hide all of your valuables in a single spot. A burglar is not likely to get everything if you spread out things in different locations.

DO: Keep valuables or jewelry you seldom wear in a safe-deposit box. Hide other items in places where burglars don't normally look, like the garage, or above dropped ceilings. Or hide valuables in the deep freeze or in diversion safes made for this purpose.

DON'T: Get a big dog. A doberman or German shepherd might seem scary, but burglars don't care. Most big dogs, unless they're real guard dogs, don't bark much. What you want is a "yapper," a small pooch that makes a lot of noise when disturbed.

DON'T: Hide windows with bushes. Tall shrubs give burglars a safe, dark place to force open windows without being seen. Keep bushes trimmed to below window level.

Do's And Don'ts To Protect Your Home From Burglars
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Weller Soldering Gun Dewalt Reconditioned

Three Pressure Cleaning Hazards You Should Be Aware Of

Pressure cleaning can make your cleaning process quicker, easier and better. High pressure washing is an extremely complex operation and is always better to be handled by professional cleaning service companies. High pressure cleaners produce water pressure as high as 36000 psi at short distances. This high pressure water jet steam has very high cutting potential and has the ability to cause severe injuries. Also, it is important for the user to understand the mechanism behind pressure washers.

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Pressure cleaners can either be gas powered or electricity powered. Both kinds of washers require specific safety precautions while handling and hence sufficient care and caution must be taken. Pressure cleaning using electricity powered pressure cleaners should not be used in the rain. Even if they are to be used in the rain, you should ensure that you do not use it to spray on electrical appliances or outlets in order to avoid causing short circuits. Do not make any contacts with smoke when you use gas powered pressure washers.

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Matches, open flames and other heat sources should be avoided since they can ignite gasoline. When you fill the washer with fuel, you have to turn off the machine. Overfilling is equally dangerous. Fire hazards and spills are likely to happen in such cases. Check for gas leakage as well. There are many hazards that are possible with pressure cleaning. Some of the most common ones are discussed in this article. Following the guidelines in the manual of pressure cleaners is extremely important

Pressure cleaners could pose a heavy threat to your eyes when appropriate protection is not used. Any kind of pressurized sprays are capable of damaging eyes of the operator and/or bystanders. Therefore, water discharge from a loose fitting or a hose that is poorly connected must be sealed. Ensure that you keep the nozzle aimed at the ground when not in use and you need to maintain a safe distance while spraying. When a power washer is used on stone, concrete, wood or such similar surfaces; hidden stress fractures could cause chunks to dislodge and become airborne. Eye protection is, therefore, mandatory.

While you are pressure cleaning, be sure that you understand washer kickback. Not many are aware of how the gun would behave while spraying water. Some models kickback when pressure is applied. You need to grip the gun tightly with both hands. Kickback can happen when you turn on the spray and when water hits the surface. This is the reason pressure cleaners should not be operated while you are on scaffolds or stepladders.

The distance to be maintained can be quite a tricky area. Too short a distance can cause the surface to erode and too far may not serve the intended purpose. It takes some amount of practice and time to gauge the distance perspective.

Pressure cleaning is an art that takes time and practice to master. It is imperative that safety precautions are adhered to so that you do not incur any damage (property or person).

Three Pressure Cleaning Hazards You Should Be Aware Of
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Special Price!!! Master Appliance UT-200Si Ultratorch Self Igniting High Powered Heat Tool

Master Appliance UT-200Si Ultratorch Self Igniting High Powered Heat Tool
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Master Appliance UT-200Si Ultratorch Self Igniting High Powered Heat Tool Feature

  • Equivalent to a 200-Watts max electric soldering iron
  • Adjustable temperatures up to 2372-Degree Fahrenheit/1260-Degree Celsius
  • Standard with Ultra tip soldering tip, hot air tip, shrink attachment, spanner and open end wrenches, and protective cap
  • High power makes it perfect for heavy duty service and maintenance
  • Refill with master ultratane butane for best performance


Master Appliance UT-200Si Ultratorch Self Igniting High Powered Heat Tool Overview

    200SI

    Model UT-20OSi Jumbo Self Igniting Ultratorch

    The UT-20OSi comes ready-to-use. Versatility and power (BTU's) are combined in this model which features a built-in Piezo electric starter for self- ignition anywhere. Featuring five adjustable temperature settings and a 63 ml gas tank capacity, the UT-20OSi gives over 4.5 hours of operating time. The UT-20OSi comes standard with a soldering tip, heat tip and protective cap.





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Master Appliance HG-501AK 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit

Special Price!!! Master Appliance HG-501AK 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit

Master Appliance HG-501AK 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit
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Master Appliance HG-501AK 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit

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Master Appliance HG-501AK 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit Feature

  • High temperature and power ratings: up to 750-Degree Fahrenheit/400-Degree Celsius at 1680-Watts
  • High airflow rating: 23 CFM at 3000 FPM gets the job done fast
  • Powerful high speed universal motor
  • UL and CUL listed or CSA certified, made in USA
  • Use to shrink tubing and packaging, bend plastics, cure adhesives, dry and heat parts, strip paint, defrost frozen pipes, solder/desolder and more


Master Appliance HG-501AK 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit Overview

  • Professional, heavy-duty, industrial quality, multiple use heat gun and kit
  • Kit includes heat gun model # HG-501A, shrink attachment (model# A-160-HG), reducer attachment (model # 51543), spreader attachment (model # 51544), storage case (model # 51013).
  • New Kit - storage/carrying case protects the heat gun and provides ample space for all attachments.
  • High temperature and power ratings of 750 degrees at up to 1740 watts.
  • Variable Temperature - the HG-501A has a temperature range of 500 to 750 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Various Attachments - This kit includes a heat shrink attachment, reducer attachments, and spreader attachment.




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Master Appliance HG-751B 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun

Special Price!!! Master Appliance HG-751B 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun

Master Appliance HG-751B 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun
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Master Appliance HG-751B 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun

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Master Appliance HG-751B 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun Feature

  • High temperature and power ratings: up to 1000-Degree Fahrenheit/540-Degree Celsius at 1740-Watts
  • High airflow rating: 23 CFM at 3000 FPM gets the job done fast
  • Powerful high speed universal motor
  • UL and CUL listed or CSA certified, made in USA
  • Use to shrink tubing and packaging, bend plastics, cure adhesives, dry and heat parts, strip paint, defrost frozen pipes, solder/desolder and more


Master Appliance HG-751B 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun Overview

  • Industrial quality, high performance, maximum flexibility
  • Heavy-duty industrial-quality heat gun with temperature and power ratings up to 750 F (399C) up to 1740 Watts (12OV).
  • The air flow rating is 23 CFM at 3,000 FPM.
  • A universal motor, die cast aluminum housing, reinforced mica-insulated ceramic heating element and externally replaceable carbon brushes make the Master Heat Gun a rugged, reliable source of flameless heat whether you're working with freezer coils, plastic laminates, circuit boards, PVC, fiberglass or heat-shrinkable materials.
  • Overall dimensions: 10" L x 5.25" W x 9.5" H
  • Nozzle opening diameter - 1.188"
  • Net weight 3.7 lbs.
  • Shipping weight 5 lbs.
  • Cord length - 6 ft.




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Electrical Overload Outlet Damage From Motor Home

If you have some one staying at your house in a trailer, that's plugged into your house and using your electricity, you had better read this article. This is something that happened to me, when my father in law was visiting us in the summer of 92. I just said that because it sounded good, I don't remember what year it actually was.

Master Appliance Heat Gun

My father-in-law came to visit us for a few months and parked his motor home in a spot next to the home that I had prepared for him. I poured a nice concrete driveway, but never gave enough thought to electricity and waste.

Master Appliance Heat Gun

He plugged a regular 14 gauge 100 foot long extension cord from an electrical outlet in my garage to his motor home. This wasn't that big of a problem, until it started to get a little warmer and he needed to start using his air-conditioning.

Nothing happened for a few days and I'm not suggesting that this will ever happen to you, but there is a possibility and that's why I'm sharing this story with you. Just because one thing happens to someone, it doesn't mean that it will ever happen to you. It could and that's why I'm writing this article.

I came home from work one day and he told me that he didn't have any electricity in his motor home. I gave the electrical cord a inspection, only to find out that my electrical outlet in the garage had been smoked and the extension cord was melted into it.

The motor home air-conditioning system drew too much electrical amperage for the extension cord to supply, causing it to heat up and melt until the electrical outlets until it disconnected from the electrical system. Electrical problems like these happen, but they can be avoided, by reading articles like these.

If you do have a trailer at your house and someone living in it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to contact a licensed electrician to remedy the situation and prevent any electrical overload outlet damage in the future. Remember that electrical problems like these start fires and this normally isn't a good thing.

Electrical Overload Outlet Damage From Motor Home
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Master Appliance MT-51 Table Top Microtorch with Plastic Tank

Master Appliance MT-51 Table Top Microtorch with Plastic Tank
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Master Appliance MT-51 Table Top Microtorch with Plastic Tank Feature

  • A hand held or table top, self igniting, butane powered microtorch
  • Two hours of continuous burn time on a full tank
  • Adjustable broad or pinpoint flame
  • Refill with Master Ultratane butane for best performance
  • Use to heat materials, ignite materials, pinpoint torch, shrink tubing, solder and desolder, terminate specialty connectors and more


Master Appliance MT-51 Table Top Microtorch with Plastic Tank Overview

  • Wide stable base makes it perfect for hands-free use.
  • Produces a broad yellow or blue pinpoint adjustable, wind resistant flame with temperatures up to 2,500oF/1300oC Blue Flame
  • Built in self igniting switch makes unit easy to ignite.
  • Meets Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) child safety requirements.
  • Large built in plastic fuel tank is easy to refill.
  • Runs approximately 2 hours on a full charge.
  • Unit is shipped without fuel. Use with Master Ultrane Butane for best performance.
  • Pinpoint flame is perfect for soldering, desoldering, heat shrinking and terminating, heating, lighting, melting wax and many other microtorch applications.




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Master Appliance UT-100SiEA Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Fan Assisted Air Flow

Master Appliance UT-100SiEA Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Fan Assisted Air Flow
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Master Appliance UT-100SiEA Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Fan Assisted Air Flow Feature

  • Butane powered and completely portable/cordless, for use where no electrical outlets are available
  • Built in battery powered motor uses four standard AA batteries
  • Built in LED light provides lighting in dark locations
  • Built in stand is convenient for safety and hands-free use
  • Use with or without enhanced air flow and with or without shrink attachment


Master Appliance UT-100SiEA Ultratorch Self Igniting Heat Tool with Fan Assisted Air Flow Overview

butane-powered flameless heat tool with fan assisted air flow. Ideal for terminating shrink tubing and specialty connectors 10mm I.D. or less.



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Stack-On Gun Safe - Why Do You Need to Go For a Stack-On Gun Safe?

One of the most important appliances a gun collector should have is a gun cabinet or gun safe. Owning a vast number of arsenals requires proper organization. Safety units or cabinets for guns provide not only proper organization but also security and safety to your precious collection. They keep the guns protected from theft and disasters. Additionally, they prevent accidents and misuse. One of the highly recommended safety units today is the Stack-On Gun Safe. This product line came from a company that manufactures tool storage systems. However, why should you choose this brand over other brands?

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High Level of Theft Protection

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Stack-On units are designed to be theft proof. These appliances have great theft barrier and their walls are durable enough to protect their contents. Depending on the model of safes you choose, the box can provide order as it allows storage of ammunition, rifles, handguns and shotguns. These boxes cannot be easily opened up by mere usage of locksmith tools. For added protection, you may bolt the box the floor.

Resistant to Fire

These units are developed and incorporated with fire resistant technology. Most of these safes can tolerate extreme heat more than an hour without risking the quality of the ammunitions and guns inside the boxes. Generally, these safes are made of metal finished with silver coating. Their body are constructed with fireproof material and special chemicals with added resistant.

Sold at a Reasonable Price

Typically, safes can cost as high as ,000 dollars or even more. The Stack-On safes balance out price and quality, conclusively making it the best gun safe there is. They do not compromise the quality of the product and they offer a more reasonable price range. The average price of these boxes is around 0. The price may go a little higher depending on the model you choose. Bear in mind to always go for safes with fire protection and have organizational features.

Stack-On Gun Safe - Why Do You Need to Go For a Stack-On Gun Safe?
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Master Appliance VT-750C 1000 Degree Fahrenheit Max 120V Master Varitemp Heat Gun
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Master Appliance VT-750C 1000 Degree Fahrenheit Max 120V Master Varitemp Heat Gun Feature

  • High temperature and power ratings: up to 1000-Degree Fahrenheit/540-Degree Celsius at 1740-Watts
  • High airflow rating: 23 CFM at 3000 FPM gets the job done fast
  • Powerful high speed universal motor
  • UL and CUL listed or CSA certified, made in USA
  • Use to shrink tubing and packaging, bend plastics, cure adhesives, dry and heat parts, strip paint, defrost frozen pipes, solder/desolder and more


Master Appliance VT-750C 1000 Degree Fahrenheit Max 120V Master Varitemp Heat Gun Overview

VT-750C Model Code: AA - Price is for 1 Each (part# VT-750C) This item features: -Adjustable non-slip stand. -Lockable variable temperature control allows you to dial-in any temperature from ambient to 1000 F/540 C, and lock it in. -Powerful high speed universal motor. -Sturdy die cast housing. -Use to activate adhesives, defrost frozen coils, heat sensitive material, melt solder, soften plastics and more. -Flow: 23.0 CFM. -Velocity: 3000 ft/min. -Fan Speed: Single. -Length: 9 in. -Width: 6 1/2 in. -Height: 10.100 in. -Outlet Size: 1 in. -Cord Length: 6 ft. -Control Type: Switch (3 Pos-Off/On/Heat), Variable Temperature. -Handle Type: Pistol Grip. -Wt.: 3.70 lb. Testing and approvals: -UL listed. Model Code  Model Description AAOperating Temp.:1000 F [Max], Voltage:120.00 VAC, Frequency:60.0 Hz, Amps:14.50 A, Watts:1740.00 W, Type:Heat Gun ABOperating Temp.:750 F [Max], Voltage:220.00 VAC, Frequency:50.0 Hz, Amps:7.00 A, Watts:1680.00 W



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What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 1

Do you want to learn exactly why your heating system burns more fuel than it should? Of course you do, or you wouldn't have found this article. Following are answers to the questions you have, or ones you didn't know you had. I will explain (in defined technical terms) how your heating system is likely to be costing more to heat your home or commercial building than it should and what you can do to reduce those costs.

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Anyone who drives an automobile knows that certain cars use less gas than others. The same is true for heating equipment and like gas-guzzling SUVs, some heating systems consume enormous amounts of fuel. The difference between cars and heating systems is cars offer many benefits beyond the primary one of transportation. Cars have performance, comfort and visual appeal, as well as can be a status symbol. Heating systems are tucked away in a basement, attic or closet and their operation and performance are a mystery to most not in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (HVAC) trade, and still a mystery to many in the trade - so-called, "professionals" (a term I use loosely throughout this article).

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To clarify, I may interchange the acronym HVAC for heating, and vice versa, but this article is about heating systems, how they work and how they often burn excessive amounts of "fuel" - gas or oil.

Most building owners know how to set the thermostat, change air filters and check the fuel level on their heating fuel tank gauge, but that is about the extent of their heating system knowledge. Typically, building owners do not want to know how their heating system works; it seems too complicated and futile. They prefer to leave the technical aspects to the service personnel they have come to trust. Did I say "trust"? There are many reasons to examine your trust for your heating service company, fuel supplier and General Contractor if you are having a new building constructed - residential or commercial.

For starters, do not assume that the professional you hire to design, install, service or maintain your heating system is qualified to make all the right decisions in those respective aspects of the HVAC trade. Just as in most professions, heating professionals are often types who could care less about the quantity of fuel a heating system ends up consuming and costing its owner; their paycheck at the end of the week is more important to them. The majority of HVAC tradesmen have never been to school to learn the innumerable facets of the interrelated technologies. Moreover, many have never finished high school! But let's not get personal. Mostly, tradesmen have gathered their knowledge through hands-on experience. Experience comes in two flavors: good and bad. If the on-the-job-training has been with lousy 'teachers', then the student will be a lousy apprentice and graduate to becoming a hopelessly old dog incapable of learning new tricks.

It's not only ignorance and bad attitude that have a hand in your fuel-hungry heating appliance's performance, though I wish it were. Deliberate sales of terribly inefficient heating equipment plays a huge role. Sadly to say, American made boilers and furnaces are among the least efficient in the world and continued sales of them guarantee that fuel companies will find you to be a better customer - you will buy more fuel! Greed will often lead to corruption, with most of the corrupt getting away with it. This is a significant reason for my writing this expose.

I have no specific desire to be confrontational with specific companies, though I know them well, but I can't close my eyes any longer, knowing that we are all heading toward a dead-end with our consumption of natural resources. Fossil fuels are limited, they say the planet is heating up and polar bears' extinction in 50 years is all but inevitable. But the more we consume the more we strip forever from the planet its resources and the little is left to meet the needs of its inhabitants in the future. Must we consume until we've proved that the human species is the most insidious parasite the planet has ever known? Do we only take and put nothing back? At least we can take less of the fuel we use to heat our homes, businesses and industries and save money as we do it.

As a precursor to understanding how your heating system works, it is essential to understand the basic terms used in the industry, so let's start with the industry players, then we'll move on to dispelling the mystery surrounding the more technical aspects.

Fuel Companies - "Fuel" is a general term I use to cover any fossil fuel type such as, fuel oil, kerosene, natural and liquefied petroleum gas (LPG), methane, butane and any other petroleum-based gas types that I may not have listed here. Distributors of these fuels have one goal: to sell ("market") as much fuel as they can, to whoever will buy it and for the highest price. Period! They do not have your best economic interests in mind. They are the well-known petroleum giants, names emblazoned on tractor trailer tanks barreling down highways; large publicly traded utilities and your local fuel company with warm 'friendly' ads in the media. Fuel companies have the most to gain by inefficiently designing, installing and servicing your heating equipment. They want to deliver as much fuel at each delivery stop as possible. I know, I used to deliver fuel when I worked for fuel companies in the early 1980s.

HVAC Contractors - "HVAC" is a general term that is often misused and misapplied. Businesses that go under this heading tend to get involved with the installation and service of many areas of the indoor climate control realm, and it is a broad one! Not only does HVAC mean heating, ventilation and air conditioning, but also humidity control, indoor air quality and refrigeration. This player in the trade is likely to be more incompetent than fraudulent when it comes to accurately designing, installing and servicing heating equipment.

Plumbing & Heating (P&H) Companies - Many heating consumers are groomed through the ages to believe that plumbers are the same as heating technicians - they are not. The only thing plumbing and heating have in common is in the way pipes are connected - threaded, soldered (sweated), welded, glued (cemented), and more recently, compressed together with company specific connection means. P & H types rarely have mastered heating technology. I can spot a plumber-installed heating system instantly. It's one thing to be a master at piping, which many plumbers are, it's another issue altogether to know how the piped heating system works.

Handyman - Knows a little bit more than a homeowner about heating systems.

Heating Technicians - This is who you want to work on your heating system, but not necessarily one from a fuel company. Heating technicians work for fuel companies and gas utilities/suppliers. "Buyer beware!" Only half of these guys are qualified to do a good job on your system. Still, only 10% are really good, master-types who are rarely stumped and who see the big picture - the original system design is clear to them, the service history pops out like forensic science and they can make your system work with little or nothing to work with.

The aforementioned list is comprised of the standard players in the trade, but only fuel companies sell fuel, design, install and service heating equipment, which is not to suggest that all fuel companies participate in all aspects of the heating trade, nor am I saying that all fuel companies defraud their customers, most do not.

The case for burning less fuel can be easily made if everyone went out on the ocean in a boat and saw the sickening depth of pollution in our atmosphere stretching across the water as far as the eye can see. I live on the Atlantic side of the States and the prevailing winds blow off the land, bringing with it the smog generated across the country. Otherwise, watch a sunset and marvel at the orange and red hues, for they are the result of pollutants and particulates in the atmosphere that taint the natural color of sunlight.

Let us examine what goes into our atmosphere and our lungs when we breathe, when fossil fuels are burned. The byproducts of combustion of gas types and fuel oil include, but are not limited to:

1. Flue Gas

2. Carbon Dioxide

3. Nitrogen Oxide

4. Nitrogen Dioxide

5. Sulphur Dioxide

6. Soot

7. Carbon Monoxide

The exhausting of these compounds into the earth's atmosphere occurs constantly across the globe and proportionately to the amount of fuel burned by heating equipment, internal combustion engines and industrial processes. The more fuel we burn, the more we contribute to the aggregate pollution of our home - Earth. Why, then, burn more fuel than necessary?

The following terms and definitions deal directly with heating system apparatus and components.
British Thermal Unit (BTU) - The amount of energy required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. British Thermal Units are expressed as a ratio to time -BTUs per hour (written btus/hr., or MBH, where M=the Roman numeral for 1,000; B=BTUs; H=Hour, so expressed as 1000s of btus/hr. All heating equipment is rated in BTU heating capacity. A typical residential furnace has a heating capacity of 100,000 BTUs and can heat a 3,000 square foot modern house. These are approximate numbers, of course. For an accurate BTU requirement to heat a building a Heat Loss Calculation must be conducted (see definition for Heat Loss Calculation). Flue - The passageways that direct the byproducts of combustion out of a heating appliance. Burner - These come in many types, but we will restrict our discussion to Gun-Type, Sealed Combustion and Atmospheric, as these are most likely the kind that are in residential and commercial buildings. Burners mix #2 fuel oil, kerosene, LPG or Natural gas with atmosphere (air), then ignite and control the combustion of their respective fuel types. Gun type burners can be seen protruding from the fronts of boilers and furnaces and burn gas and oil. Atmospheric gas burners are like the gas burner under a water pot on a kitchen stove - they are open to the atmosphere. Water heaters, Furnaces and Boilers utilize atmospheric and gun-type burners. Sealed Combustion burners are as their title implies, the combustion process is sealed tightly from the atmosphere in which they are installed, like a basement, attic or closet. Sealed combustion burners take their combustion air from the outdoors through a plastic pipe and vent their products of combustion to the outdoors through a second pipe, usually made of PVC (polyvinylchloride) or stainless steel. Gun-type and atmospheric burners generally vent to the outdoors through a chimney or mechanical venting means, called a "power-venter". While Atmospheric burners are simple and inexpensive, Sealed Combustion burners are much more complex and expensive. Atmospheric burners are mid efficiency types, whereas Sealed Combustion burners are high efficiency types. Combustion Chamber - A combustion chamber or, simply, a chamber is almost always part and parcel of heating appliances that utilize a gun-type burner, and is internal to a furnace or boiler. Inside the chamber is where the actual fire during combustion of fuels takes place. An observation door or window allows a technician partial view of the combustion process inside the chamber. Boiler - A cast iron or steel heat-generating vessel that utilizes water as a heat transfer medium to warm a space to a desired temperature. Boilers incorporate a burner which facilitates the combustion of fuels. Boilers can include a chamber, but don't always. Furnace - A Furnace includes a burner, most likely a combustion chamber, a heat exchanger, a blower or fan and has ducts connected to it. The blower pulls "return air" from the conditioned space through a "return duct" and pushes it across the non-flue gas side of the heat exchanger. Once the relatively cold return air comes into contact with the very hot heat exchanger, the moving air picks up heat and is propelled toward the occupied space through the supply duct and out diffusers and registers placed in the rooms to be heated. For sake of reference, furnaces have replaceable air filters, boilers do not. Heat Exchanger - A device that transfers heat from one medium (fire and flue gas) to that of another. Flue gas contains heat which is transferred through a steel, cast iron, aluminum or stainless steel barrier (prior to exiting the appliance and up the flue) into a heat transfer medium separated by the heat exchanger barrier. For sake of our discussion, air, water and steam are the heat transfer mediums relevant to this article that transfer the heat from combustion to space in the building to be heated. Conditioned Space - The space within a building - residential or commercial - that is to be heated or air conditioned. We will deal with heating a conditioned space in this article. Hydronics - Hot water or steam heating technology. Forced Hot Water (FHW) - FHW heating systems include boilers (or sometimes water heaters) connected by pipes to heating "terminal units" like radiators, baseboard convectors, hot water coils in an airstream and radiant floor heating tubes embedded in floors. Forced hot water systems succeed gravity hot water (GHW) systems that were coal fired back in the day of their popular use. Water is heated in a boiler and is then circulated, or forced with a 'pump' through pipes connecting the boiler to the terminal units where heat is rejected to the space to be conditioned. The hot water temperature is lessened by the cooler room air that surrounds the terminal units and the water is returned to the boiler to be reheated and re-circulated in a continuous cycle that only stops when the room thermostat is satisfied by the increasingly heated air. Forced Hot Air (FHA) - As in FHW, a heat exchanger inside a furnace takes the heat generated by the combustion of fuel and transfers it to the occupied space of a building, but through the passage of heated air inside supply and return ducts. Forced Hot Air implies the utilization of a furnace, whereas Forced Hot Water uses a boiler. Steam - This system is the "Hydronic" cousin of forced hot water. Both transfer heat through water or water vapor - steam. Both include boilers that transfer heat from the fuel combustion process to the heat transfer medium - water or steam. Both include pipes and terminal units. Steam is created when water in the boiler boils and converts to steam if it is continually heated. Imagine a pot of water on a burner. The stove burner (gas or electric) heats the pot of water above it. Left long enough above the heat, the water boils and vaporizes upward. In the boiler the vapor rises up in voluminous pipes onward to cast iron radiators or baseboard. Steam seeks equilibrium with the atmosphere. Hot vapor has greater pressure than cooler air, so rushes for the nearest exit in a steam system into the lower pressure atmosphere in the conditioned space. Press the "Schrader" valve stem on your car tire and high pressure air rushes out into the lower pressure atmosphere - it's the same with steam in a heating system. Strategically placed air vents on radiators and condensate return lines allow the air above the water line in a steam system to be forced out of the system through them, but stop as the steam comes into contact with their internal mechanisms. Steam is the least efficient heating type, as the water temperature must be raised above 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Whereas, hot water systems water temperature can be modulated based on the outdoor ambient air temperature. The warmer it is outside, the less temperature is needed in forced hot water system water. Heat pumps, electrically heated boilers and baseboard element, wood and coal-fired boilers and furnaces, solar and any other system types not fired by petroleum products, are not included in this article. Limit Control - This control is also referred to as an "aquastat" in FHW systems and a "Fan & Limit Control in FHA systems. Hybrid hydronic systems - a steam boiler with a FHW loop (zone) also incorporate Limit Controls. Limit controls can maintain low temperature and high temperature thresholds in a heating system. Limit Controls come in many different types and have a myriad of applications that require a specific type of Limit Control. Limit Controls are often the device that cause excessive fuel consumption and are selected for this reason by unethical fuel companies so your system burns the maximum amount of fuel your heating system can possibly burn. You will want to check the type of Limit Control on your heating system! Read on to find out why. Nozzle - The device in an oil burner that meters a specific amount of fuel through it and converts the liquid fuel into a vapor that can be readily mixed with air and ignited. Nozzles have 3 means of categorization: the amount of fuel that passes through it in gallons per hour (GPH) @ 100 pounds per square inch (PSI) of fuel pump pressure; the angle of oil vapor spray that comes out of its orifice; and the spray pattern - solid, hollow, or somewhere in between. Those specifications are written as an example like 1.00-80-B. This means 1 gallon of oil will pass through the nozzle at 100 PSI, 80 degrees is the vapor spray angle and "B" is code for solid. Too high a GPH and your oil burner will over-fire your furnace or boiler and start and stop too often - "short-cycle". Burner Orifice - Like in oil burners, gas burners have metering devices and these are called burner orifices or burner "spud". The wrong burner orifice in a gas system can be deadly, as gas is explosive and when it is not burned properly and in the correct proportion to air the outcome can be inefficient and downright dangerous. Gas burners have at least one orifice but can have many, sometime too many, as you will see later in this article. Heat Loss Calculation - Software programs exist to accept data input relative to a building's design characteristics like window and door types, sizes and U-values, structure insulation R-values, room sizes and internal heat gain like people and appliances. Once this information is entered into the program the software calculates how many BTUs are needed on the coldest day of the year to heat the building to a design temperature say, 68 degrees. There are no accurate short cuts to a heat loss calculation. Anytime a new heating system is designed it must first be preceded by an accurate heat loss calculation. For everything related to proper equipment and component sizing and selection is based on BTU generating and/or carrying capacity. Pipe diameters are limited in how many BTUs of energy they can transport with water as its heat transfer medium, just as duct sizes are limited in how many BTUs they can transport with air as the medium.Let's apply these technical terms. For starters, let's create a scenario - you want to build a new house. The first thing you do is interview several building contractors who call themselves a General Contractor (GC). A competent GC will give you a package price for construction of all aspects and systems in the new house. He will hire and manage all subcontractors from the electrician, to the plumber to the roofer, and the HVAC contractor. These tradesmen are subcontractors to the GC. The residential building trade is an extremely competitive one and the profit margins are slim. The GC knows this, so hires the people he thinks will furnish acceptable quality at the lowest price. Unfortunately, most GCs are extremely unaware of the importance of proper heating system design and the information that needs to be considered to produce the most efficient design for the money. He is also unaware of the requisite steps involved with cranking out a professional design. It is the design that determines the cost. GCs often look at the cost only. As long as the heating system "works", then the GC is happy, even though he will never know that the system will consume a lot more fuel than if it was competently designed in the first place. In fact, nobody will ever know that is, until a true competent professional figures it out, but then it is usually too late. Most would rather spend more money on fuel than replace the incorrectly designed system.

What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 1
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Master Appliance MT-51 Table Top Microtorch with Plastic Tank
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Master Appliance MT-51 Table Top Microtorch with Plastic Tank Feature

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Master Appliance HG-751BK 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit

Master Appliance HG-751BK 750-1000 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Master Heat Gun Kit
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Master Appliance HG-501A 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun

Master Appliance HG-501A 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun
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Master Appliance HG-501A 500-750 Degree Fahrenheit 120V Dual Temp Master Heat Gun Feature

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Master Appliance Heat Gun, Master-Mite, 120 V Overview

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Master Appliance Heat Gun, Master-Mite, 120 V